Veille « Toute La Beauté au bout des doigts » N° 2-6

Les Numéros 2 à 6 de Janvier à Mi-Février 2017 du Bulletin de Veille « Toute La Beauté au bout des doigts«  sont en ligne.

Veille Scientifique & réglementaire : la cosmétique, ses ingrédients et sphères d’influence…

N° 2 : 09-15.01.2017

N° 3 : 16-22.01.2017

N° 4 : 23-29.01.2017

N° 5 : 30.01-05.02.2017

N° 6 : 06-12.02.2017

gaelle queignec cosmetiques

Bonne lecture…


Veille « Toute La Beauté au bout des doigts »- N° 1 Janvier 2017

Le premier Numéro du Bulletin de Veille  2017 « Toute La Beauté au bout des doigts«  est paru.

Veille Scientifique & réglementaire : la cosmétique, ses ingrédients et sphères d’influence…

N° 1 : 01-08 Janvier 2017


Bonne lecture…

Bulletin de Veille « Toute La Beauté au bout des doigts »

Après quelques mois de pause,

je reprends la transmission d’articles inspirants sur la Cosmétique, ses ingrédients et sphères d’influence.

La Veille, c’est user avec délice de son esprit de curiosité et d’ouverture pour détecter les innovations et naviguer dans le flux effervescent de la création …

et au final, réunir tous les ingrédients pour inventer les cosmétiques de demain.


La présentation : une lettre hebdomadaire, « Toute La Beauté au bout des doigts«  qui reprendra les actualités du secteur Cosmétique-Chimie-Ingrédients, sous la lorgnette d’un Scientifique réglementaire.

Les premiers numéros d’Octobre sont déjà parus :

N° 2 : 29 septembre- 10 Octobre

N° 3 : 10-16 Octobre

N° 4 : 17-23 Octobre

N° 5 : 24-31 Octobre

 Et le premier de Novembre :

N° 6 : 01-06 Novembre

Un rendez-vous régulier reprend..pour faire germer de nouvelles inspirations !



Bonne lecture…

« Major Take-Aways from Europe Sustainable Cosmetics Summit 2015 »

« The European edition of the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit 2015 drew to a successful close at the end of October, bringing together 140 delegates from the beauty industry. Discussions over the 3-day summit centred on sustainability metrics, ethical labels, green materials and digital marketing.

Sustainable Cosmetics Summit 2015 Paris

Bruce Lourie, a leading Canadian environmentalist and author, kicked off the summit with a keynote on safe cosmetics. He called for a clean-up of personal care formulations, stating the possible health risks of contentious chemicals. Subsequent speakers looked at the practical use of metrics for sustainability. Claude Fromageot stated metrics have improved the environmental and social footprint of all Yves Rocher products. The company’s sustainability activities include growing organic ingredients, ethical sourcing, eco-design of packaging, and waste management.

Stephane Lecoutiere from BASF gave details of its new Sustainable Solution Steering approach. It categorises cosmetic ingredients according to their sustainability credentials, with accelerators providing highest value. Neal’s Yard Remedies shared its experiences in becoming the first carbon neutral retailer in the UK. With over half its carbon footprint from its premises, the company has built an eco-factory to minimise energy use. Martin Clemesha from Braskem showed how cosmetic brands can reduce their packaging impacts by using green polyethylene made from sugar cane.

Novel sources of active ingredients were featured in the Green Materials session. Chris Kilham, Sustainability Ambassador of Naturex, showed how trees can become a source of new actives. Quillaja and Dragon’s Blood were given as examples of two actives with green credentials. Marinova outlined the opportunities provided by marine extracts; the Australian company is producing actives from hand-harvested organic wild seaweed. Active Concepts highlighted the use of plant cell technology, whilst JRS showed how cellulose is a viable green alternative to polyethylene beads in exfoliants.

A keynote from Peter Brändle, Regional Director of Western Europe of Weleda, started the Ethical Labels session. With a proliferation in the number of labelling schemes, Brändle said it was more important for cosmetic brands to have a green ethos than adopt multiple logos. Urtekram highlighted the issues involved in adopting various standards; the Danish company has adopted the Ecocert / Cosmos, Nordic Swan, Vegan Society, Fairtrade and Asthma Allergy Certified labels. According to their R&D manager Tom Hornshøj-Møller, multiple standards create too many restrictions with little overlap between certification criteria. Amarjit Sahota, President of Organic Monitor, called for some harmonisation of existing standards otherwise proliferation could dampen consumer demand. Citing Organic Monitor research, logos & symbols were no guarantee of success in the increasing competitive natural cosmetics market.

The Digital Marketing session explored the opportunities provided by social media. With over 70 % of European consumers now internet users, David Dewilde from Disko Paris believes cosmetic brands can’t risk lagging behind the digital revolution. He stated a common mistake for brands is to focus on the product (and not the people) in digital marketing activities. Richard Stacy echoed this sentiment, stating social media enables brands to undertake individualised marketing. He believes algorithms could make marketing redundant in the future. LoveLula shared its experiences in online retailing for natural and organic cosmetics; the company has added traditional bricks ‘n’ mortar retailing to complement its online business.

The summit shed light on some of the sustainability shortcomings in the cosmetics industry. With the highest environmental impact of many products at use phase, what can be done to encourage responsible consumption of cosmetics? How can consumers be encouraged to undertake sustainable purchases? How can greater traceability be provided in ingredient supply chains? What can be done to reduce the packaging footprint of cosmetic products? How can the technical issues of using natural ingredients be overcome? What green alternatives are emerging to replace contentious synthetic materials?

Such questions will be addressed in the 2016 editions of the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit… « 


« Study Finds High Levels Of Stress Leads To Skin Complaints »- Cosmetics Design-Europe

« Researchers say that going down the non-drug route to deal with psychological stress and also protect the skin could be the answer having found that heightened stress levels are associated with many skin complaints; although not pimples on the face.


A research team at the Lewis Katz School of Medicine at Temple University (LKSOM) and Temple University made the observation having carried out a questionnaire-based study, published in the international, peer-reviewed journal Acta Dermato-Venereologica.

The aim was to assess the relationship between perceived psychological stress and the prevalence of various skin symptoms in a large, randomly selected sample of undergraduate students. (…) »

Lire la suite…

Short Communication
Psychological Stress and Skin Symptoms in College Students: Results of a Cross-sectional Webbased Questionnaire Study
Christina Schut, Nicholas K. Mollanazar, Mansha Sethi, Leigh A. Nattkemper, Rodrigo Valdes-Rodriguez, MacKenzie M. Lovell, Gina L. Calzaferri and Gil Yosipovitch
(Department of Dermatology and Itch Center, Temple University School of Medicine, Philadelphia, USA; Institute of Medical Psychology, Justus-Liebig-University, Giessen, Germany; Office of Institutional Research & Assessment at Temple University, Philadelphia, USA).
Acta Derm Venereol 2015; doi: 10.2340/00015555-2291
Accepted Nov 16, 2015; Epub ahead of print Nov 18, 2015


Article d’Andrew Mc Dougall, Cosmetics Design- Europe


Enquête Cosmed sur les Conservateurs en Cosmétique

« Au fil des réévaluations réglementaires, la liste des conservateurs autorisés en cosmétique s’est progressivement réduite.


Sur une soixantaine de conservateurs autorisés dans l’annexe 3, seuls une vingtaine sont réellement utilisés par l’industrie pour des raisons de conservation, de formulation, de solubilité, mais aussi des attentes du consommateur.

Or, réduire davantage cette liste développerait les risques de résistance aux antimicrobiens liés à l’exposition des populations à seulement quelques conservateurs.
Les discussions actuelles autour du PHMB illustrent cette problématique. (…). Afin de défendre l’utilisation du PHMB à une concentration inférieure à 0.3 %, Cosmed souhaite alerter la C.E. sur l’impact économique de cette décision sur les entreprises. Pour chiffrer ces données, Cosmed mènera dans les prochains jours une enquête auprès de ces adhérents. (…)»

Lire la Suite …

Source :
« Newsletter Cosmed n°40 – La lettre d’information»