Patent Pick: Charging Lashes

« This highlight is a mascara from L’Oréal that gives a charging and curling effect to lashes and imparts an intense black.


Cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers

Reference: WIPO Patent Application WO/2015/155338
Publication date: Oct. 15, 2015
Assignee: L’Oréal

“This patent application relates to a composition for coating keratin fibers such as the eyelashes.

The composition includes an aqueous phase; a lamellar phase Lβ formed by an aqueous phase-structuring surfactant system having a surfactant content greater than or equal to 15 % w/w; and at least one (poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilic polymer > 3 % w/w (solids), where the hydrophilic polymer(s) has a weight-average molecular mass Mw ranging from 1,500 to 500,000 g/mol.

According to the inventors, hard waxes are known to provide a curling effect but at high concentrations they are relatively unpleasant to apply since the texture is rigid. This invention proposes a stable mascara that has a texture thick enough to consistently deposit a charge, allowing an easy, smooth, homogenous application to the eyelashes even after two months stored at 4 °C.”

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IFEAT/ RIFM First Results of Essential Oil Safety Testing Complete

« The International Federation of Essential Oils and Aroma Trades (IFEAT) is working with the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) on evaluation the safety of essential oils, using BlueScreen HC and other technologies and has completed its first round of testing results.

According to an International Trade Centre Report, the program focuses on testing the complete oil, in contract to most previous testing which looked at individual constituents and isolates as sources of toxicity.

It said the program’s intention is to assess the potential carcinogenic, mutagenic and reproductive toxicity of around 200 naturals chosen on the basis of their relative production volume, REACH compliance and other industry-relevant criteria.

All the oils tested negative for evidence of genotoxicity in each of the the assays, according to the report.

« The assessment for each oil involves a battery of tests designed to determine whether the material can cause mutations or cellular toxicity in a living system. If an essential oil produces a positive result in any test, it will be evaluated in greater detail, » the report said.

The report said the initial battery of tests were:

BlueScreen HC, conducted by Getronix Laboratories, is an assay composed of mammalian cells that measures the genotoxicity and cytotoxicity of a mixture or compound;

Bacterial Reverse Mutation Assay (OECD 471), the Ames Test, which determines the incidence of mutations in a bacterial cell culture that has been exposed to an essential oil or other material; and

In vitro Micronucleus Assay (OECD 487) that evaluates the cytogenecity of the essential oil in in vitro human peripheral blood tissue. The test provides information on whether a material interferes with cell reproduction during the process of cell division.

The first five essential oils to be tested, according to the Report, were:

Eucalyptus citriodora oil

• Fir needle oil (Siberian)

• Geranium oil (African)

• Petitgrain oil (Paraguay)

• Rose oil (Bulgarian)  « 


IFEAT World, September 2015, page 3 :

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Air Products Launches Delivery System for Deeper Penetration of Retinol in Skin

« Air Products’ Materials Technologies segment launched InuMax Advanced Retinol Cosmetic Active, a novel solution for high-load Retinol delivery at the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) California Chapter Suppliers Day tradeshow in Long Beach, California, on October 14-15. immunohistochimique-1

This unique offering is based on Air Products’ newly developed InuMax technology, designed specifically to demonstrate excellent ingredient delivery and stability performance where higher-actives loads are preferred.

Retinol is among the most well-known and well-studied cosmetic ingredients available to formulators designing anti-aging products.


Consumers have come to trust retinol as a solution to improve the appearance of their skin. Increasingly, brands are differentiating their products through retinol use-level claims, such as “Contains 0.3 % Retinol” in Europe or “Contains 1 % Retinol” in the United States. Such claims are particularly important for products targeting the professional, spa, and dermatological markets in order to reinforce their clinical, high-performing nature.

Formulating such systems can present unique challenges that many retinol solutions were not optimized to address.

Our new InuMax Advanced Retinol technology reduces the risk of skin irritation with high retinol levels and eliminates the yellowing of a formulation. Air Products’ new InuMax delivery technology addresses these gaps, and the InuMax Advanced Retinol product was created specifically to help address these concerns. It provides a high degree of retinol stability and notably lower skin irritation, while enabling delivery of a high load of retinol to the deeper skin layers to improve product performance for our customers.

“Our new InuMax Advanced Retinol solution can help brands focus on performance by going beyond just retinol stability and irritation reduction; it leverages an innovative, new technology that offers excellent performance in delivering retinol to deeper skin layers, providing multiple benefits that make it an outstanding value proposition for cosmetic products aiming to fulfill consumer expectations through use-level claims,” said Arnoldo Fonseca, Americas marketing manager for the Personal Care business.

InuMax technology is part of a growing portfolio of delivery system technologies for cosmetic applications by the Materials Technologies Additives business.

These proprietary technology platforms are able to target skin sites that range from the skin surface to within skin cells. Leveraging these technologies, the business offers over 80 active and functional commercial ingredients to the personal care industry, including those under the ROVISOME®, Cellular Actives™, Intelimer®, and Deposilk® brands. These technologies are also employed in customer-specific solutions. »

About Air Products

« Air Products is one of the leading industrial gases companies. For nearly 75 years, the Company has provided atmospheric, process and specialty gases, and related equipment to manufacturing markets, including metals, food and beverage, refining and petrochemical, and natural gas liquefaction. Air Products’ Materials Technologies segment serves the semiconductor, polyurethanes, cleaning and coatings, and adhesives industries. Over 20,000 employees in 50 countries are working to make Air Products the world’s safest and best performing industrial gases company, providing sustainable offerings and excellent service to all customers. In fiscal 2014, Air Products had sales of $10.4 billion and was ranked number 276 on the Fortune 500 annual list of public companies.« 


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Publication On DNA Sun Protection

« Researchers observe one of the world’s fastest chemical reactions for the first time.

2015-368-1wNature has developed clever mechanisms to protect our DNA from damaging radiation.

UV radiation often damages our DNA. Researchers at Kiel University and The University of Bristol, Great Britain, have now seen for the first time what happens in DNA building blocks when they are stimulated by ultraviolet light, and what they do to prevent themselves from being destroyed.
The results show: the molecules use the absorbed energy to set off a completely harmless reaction which prevents the genes being altered. The study can be found in the current edition of the journal Angewandte Chemie (Applied Chemistry).

Our DNA contains the bases adenine, guanine, cytosine and thymine. The chemists used ultra short blasts of light to shoot base pairs guanine and cytosine which were stimulated with UV light. They were only able to reveal the protective molecular mechanism using this method of femtosecond spectroscopy, because the process happened within a few quadrillionths of a second.

During the so-called electron-driven proton transfer process (EDPT), a hydrogen atom is displaced within the molecular compound. The base pair, however, immediately returns to its original starting structure from the same procedure.

« Nature uses the reaction to strengthen the DNA’s resistance to light by orders of magnitude – it is sort of a sun protection for DNA », said Professor Friedrich Temps, head of the Kiel research team from the Institute of Physical Chemistry. « The DNA building blocks themselves thereby relieve the cells’ hugely complex and very slowly active repair mechanisms using enzymes. The discovery of these enzymes this year was awarded the Nobel Prize for Chemistry. Without the passive processes we observed, the cells’ active repair mechanisms would be completely overloaded », added Professor Andrew Orr-Ewing, head of the team in Bristol.

In a few cases, however, the base pair was not able to return to the original situation. Here, EDPT caused two hydrogen atoms to be displaced. « The product could be a mutagen precursor and lead to DNA damage », explained Dr Katharina Röttger from the English working group, who received her doctoral degree in Kiel. Future experiments will have to show what then happens to this molecule. « We can only say that the potentially mutagen molecule survived our measurement time frame of one nanosecond (= a billionth of a second) », said Röttger.

The scientists now want to find out whether the same processes also occur in a long DNA strand. The many interactions within and between the molecules and in the hydrogen bridges make this undertaking more complicated, however.  Extremely fast reactions are often covered up by slower ones. Professor Temps and Professor Orr-Ewing are confident that the analysis tools of their working groups will soon be able to solve this puzzle, too. »

Publication :

K. Röttger, H. J. B. Marroux, M. P. Grubb, P. M. Coulter, H. Böhnke, A. S. Henderson, M. C. Galan, F. Temps, A. J. Orr-Ewing, G. M. Roberts, « Ultraviolet Absorption Induces Hydrogen-Atom Transfer in G∙C Watson-Crick DNA Base Pairs in Solution« , Angew. Chem. Int. Ed. 54, (2015)
DOI: 10.1002/anie.201506940


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Publication- Impact de la Recherche Agronomique sur la Productivité Agricole Française. »

 Septembre 2015 : un nouveau numéro d’INRA Sciences Sociales est paru (1/2015) : « L’impact de la Recherche Agronomique sur la Productivité Agricole Française. » « Une approche par le taux de rentabilité interne (TRI) des dépenses publiques affectées à la recherche agronomique en France. » par Jean-Pierre Butault, Stéphane Lemarié, Antonio Musolesi, Frédéric Huard, Michel Simioni et Bertrand Schmitt.

Serre expérimentale de l'Institut Jean-Pierre Bourgin, centre de Versailles-Grignon. © ©, BEAUCARDET William

Une équipe de chercheurs de l’INRA a évalué le rôle de la recherche agronomique sur l’évolution de la productivité de l’agriculture française.

Pour ce faire, ils ont mobilisé deux approches complémentaires appliquées à des séries statistiques reliant l’évolution sur longue période de la productivité totale des facteurs de l’agriculture française et celle des dépenses publiques en recherche dédiées au secteur agricole.

La première approche permet d’analyser statistiquement la relation entre productivité agricole et stock de connaissances issues des dépenses publiques de recherche. La seconde, de nature comptable, vise à calculer directement un taux de rentabilité interne (TRI) de la recherche agricole de sorte à en examiner l’évolution dans le temps.

En cohérence avec les résultats obtenus dans d’autres contextes géographiques, le TRI de la recherche agricole française se serait approché de 30 % dans les années 1960. Ce taux aurait tendance à baisser au cours des années récentes.

Plusieurs phénomènes peuvent expliquer cette tendance à la baisse de l’impact des dépenses publiques de recherche agricole sur la productivité agricole française, en particulier l’affaiblissement des innovations de rupture ou l’évolution des objectifs de la recherche agronomique. »

doc inra

Article de Drogué Sophie

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IFF- LMR Naturals Gets Recognition for Vetiver Sustainability Operations

« International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. announced that its affiliate IFF-LMR Naturals received its fourth For Life Social Responsibility designation issued by the Certification body IMOswiss AG (formerly Institute for Marketecology), this time in cooperation with its Vetiver partner in Haiti.


The For Life designation recognizes an organization’s adherence to specific sustainability criteria, including transparency, environmental responsibility, fair working conditions and positive relations with producers and local communities. This recognition comes after the certification of IFF-LMR Naturals for its rose supply chain in Turkey and its patchouli and basil supply chains in Madagascar. »

“Sustainability is foundational to IFF’s Vision 2020 business strategy and a key focus area throughout our global operations,” noted Andreas Fibig, IFF Chairman and Chief Executive Officer.

“It has been an integral part of the ethos of the LMR organization since the creation of the company more than 30 years ago. Vetiver is an important ingredient for perfumers and can be found in many of our fine fragrance and consumer fragrance creations.

This new recognition demonstrates our continued commitment to strengthening sustainability across the supply chain for the benefit of our customers and consumers. We will continue to develop this third-party certification to further support sustainable practices.”

Since its founding in Grasse, France in 1983, the stated mission of LMR is to work with its partners around the world to research and produce the highest possible quality natural, sustainable, transparent, and pure ingredients to create essential oils, concretes and absolutes for use in perfumery and flavors for food and beverages. »

About IFF

« International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. is one of the leading global creators of flavors, fragrances, and cosmetic actives used in a wide variety of consumer products. Consumers experience these unique scents, tastes, and actives in fine fragrances and beauty care, detergents and household goods, as well as beverages, sweet goods and food products. The Company leverages its competitive advantages of consumer insight, research and development, creative expertise, and customer intimacy to provide customers with innovative and differentiated product offerings. A member of the S&P 500 Index, IFF has more than 6,200 employees working in 32 countries worldwide. »


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Chocolate Smells Pink and Stripy: Exploring How Synesthetes See Smells

« Being able to identify a smell or flavour appears to be the most important factor in how some synesthetes ‘see’ them, according to a study just published in the journal Cognitive Neuroscience.


The aim of the study was to explore just how much conceptual and perceptual factors contribute to what synesthetes ‘see’ when they smell.

To do this, the trio of Australians who carried out the research presented six olfactory-visual synesthetes – people for whom odours elicit a visual experience – with a range of odourants by nose and by mouth. The participants were then asked to try to identify each smell, note its attributes and illustrate their experience using a computer program or pens and paper. A team of judges then evaluated how similar the participants’ images of the different odours were.

When reviewing the data, the researchers found that images relating to flavours that the participants identified were the most consistently similar. However, even images inconsistently named resulted in images more similar than those relating to completely different odours.  The key to this discovery seems to be that ‘hedonic information’ – how much the participant likes or dislikes the odour  – drives how similar the resulting images are.

The authors explore further why this should be the case: “One possibility is that the odor name alone could evoke these complex visual images, but this does not seem to be the case with our synesthetes. They all reported that the experience occurred on smelling the odorant, not when talking about it. Although all of these synesthetes also have synesthesia related to language, they vary in whether all letters and words, letters alone, or only some words evoke synesthesia.”

They conclude: “Our data suggest that odor identification is important in supporting the generation of a reliable image, which is consistent with access to meaning being a key driver of synesthetic experience.”

This article provides substantial insight into the fascinating phenomenon of synaesthesia, as well as the various ways in which we all – synesthete or not – perceive, identify and process flavours and odours all around us. »


Chocolate smells pink and stripy: Exploring olfactory-visual synesthesia.Alex Russell, Richard J Stevenson & Anina N Rich, Cognitive Neuroscience, Volume 6, Issue 2 – 3, 2015 Special Issue: Synaesthesia
DOI: 10.1080/17588928.2015.1035245

Table 1 Stimuli used during the orthonasal test sessions

2Table 2- Stimuli used during the flavor sessions

1Figure 1. Responses to smelling two different odors drawn by the synesthetes to illustrate their synesthetic experiences: Caramel (top row L to R: S1, S2, S3; second row L to R: S4, S5, S6) and for the burnt odor (third row L to R: S1, S2, S3; bottom row L to R: S4, S5, S6)



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