Five Beauty Trends Driving Growth

« Consumer demands for tailored solutions are impacting product segments and digital retail platforms.


1. New Growth Markets

A range of new frontier markets has emerged, led by Indonesia, Saudi Arabia and India. These dynamic growth markets are benefiting from the sophistication and expansion of beauty and personal care routines.
These changes in routines remain a key growth factor for category diversification and price platform segmentation in emerging markets.
Regimen changes include both trading up to a higher unit price and added-value alternatives in staple categories, as well as the addition of new personal care steps.

2. Ever-evolving Customization

Changing beauty habits, both in developed and developing markets, continue to fuel the customization trend in global beauty. Although it is not a new trend, it has been rapidly evolving and constantly raising the bar for marketers.
Consumers’ demands for tailored solutions vary across regions and categories and, strongly aided by digital technologies, are developing into individualization.
The most recent product customization innovations have included new product formats, textures and functions. For example, oil-based products are entering a wide range of beauty categories beyond hair and body oils into cleansing products, serums and color cosmetics (e.g., YSL Volupté Tint-In-Oil).
Demand for individually tailored solutions, the ultimate customization, is on the rise. New product developments are aligned with the trend, such as Clinique Smart Custom Serum, launched in 2014.

3. New Lucrative Opportunities in Skin Care

The global retail value of skin care exceeded $110 billion in 2014, registering more than 5 % growth. Customization remains a key trend across all beauty categories, but it is driving especially prominent growth in skin care due to the wide range of functions, benefits and claims the category can accommodate.
Within skin care, facial care products will be the most prospective growth generators. New lucrative market niches will include face masks, anti-aging and men’s skin care. Diversification of claims and formats for face masks is expanding both across Asia and Western markets.
In 2014, Asia-Pacific still accounted for 80 % of the global facial mask market. However, the category has registered 15 % growth in the United States, and the frequency of face mask application is growing in large European beauty markets, such as France and Germany.
New sheet formats should create further interest due to more complex demands and evolving beauty routines.

4. Growing Demand for Niche Offerings

Although growth was still modest in 2014 in developed markets, beauty companies aim to capture demand for “niche.” This trend is reflected in the intensifying acquisition activities among strongly performing niche brands, especially in skin care and fragrances.
Niche brands have the advantage of a more personalized offering, unique features and benefits, and are highly specialized in their focus categories.

5. Digitally Engaged Consumers

Niche opportunities beyond dynamic categories and exclusive brands are available via a growing number of niche retail platforms.
Traditional beauty retailers are developing their online presence in order to succeed among the growing competition for consumers.
Simultaneously, pure e-tailers, e.g. Amazon and eBay, have long-established infrastructure and the know-how of online trading, but the competition facing them is growing from a myriad of mobile apps, social media and company websites.
The Internet retailing channel in beauty and personal care is still relatively underdeveloped, accounting for about 5 % of total sales in 2014, but it registered the fastest growth over the 2009–2014 review period with a 17% compound annual growth rate (CAGR).
Consequently, companies have been making significant investments into expanding their digital footprint.
There are a number of focus points for these growth initiatives, including brand building, consumer engagement, beauty habit analysis and, most importantly, online retail platforms to capture new sales. As a result, the digital market space in beauty is becoming highly fragmented; the development of sound digital strategies is a necessity to capture novel opportunities.

Cautiously Optimistic Outlook

The outlook for global beauty is cautiously optimistic, near 3 % CAGR at constant 2014 prices over 2014–2019. Despite the slowdown in China and Brazil, there is still huge potential to grow beyond first-tier cities and to expand the penetration of existing flagship brands.
India remains at a nascent stage of its development with average disposable incomes at much lower levels than China or Brazil. However, given the sheer size of its rural population (860 million in 2015), and a predisposition toward skin care, even a small increase in wealth could yield a highly significant upside for the skin care category.
Meanwhile, Indonesia will increase its contribution compared to the previous five years, with a major boost from skin care.
The diversity of trends is expected to evolve under the growth pillars of customization, digital and niche opportunities in 2015 and beyond.”

I Szalai, Five Beauty Trends Driving Growth, Cosm & Toil 130(7) p 8 (Sep 2015)

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Wearable Beauty Tech: Industry Predictions

« Market research firm Euromonitor International has released an overview of the growing wearable tech sector within beauty, and has outlined its analysts’ predictions for upcoming developments…

The at-home beauty devices market has been showing significant growth, albeit from a small base, for some years now, with fellow market analyst firm, Kline, stating that the beauty device category grew by 14 % last year.
But, responding to mass consumer interest in wearable health and fitness devices, beauty brands are now looking to turn the enthusiasm for at-home beauty devices towards wearable devices too.
New technologies and capabilities are facilitating this shift in focus, Euromonitor‘s overview confirms.

Big potential

More than a fifth of respondents to Euromonitor’s Annual Online Survey on Technology stated their interest in purchasing wearable technology, and the firm’s analyst Nicole Tyrimou’s overview has confirmed that although a little slow on the uptake, beauty brands are now starting to respond to this demand.
The market analyst observes that developments in chip technology (seen, for example, in a deodorant chip being developed by Google), and in UV sensors (being used to create devices which alert consumers when more sunscreen is required) has allowed beauty to start tapping into the tech trend.
However, as it stands, the technological capabilities of these products remains limited, and yet the devices have entered the market with high price tags, meaning they are currently appealing to only a very limited number of consumers.
“As the majority of wearable technology in beauty remains as gadgets/luxury products rather than functional, problem-solving offerings, their use and presence is expected to remain niche,” confirms Tyrimou.

Developments opening doors

While they may be a luxury item for now, strong R&D investment may see practical and affordable wearable tech products eventually hitting the market.

L’Oréal is one of the few major brands currently making a real effort to take on the startups in this arena, as the multinational recently demonstrated how a wearable device could have a big future in dermatology for thermal evaluations in a non-invasive manner.
The cosmetics giant says companies can find out the condition of the skin at certain points and develop products that specifically target certain issues, using an inconspicuous, ‘band-aid’-like piece of kit.
“Developments in wireless technology will provide a path to continuous monitoring of skin properties and function using these concepts,” says the research team. »

Article by Lucy Whitehouse

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Données, Agriculture, Environnement… Innovation

 Colloque organisé et porté par Agreenium-IAVFF
au nom de l’ensemble de ses membres, avec le soutien d’Allenvi


Partage des données pour l’agriculture, l’alimentation et l’environnement :
Des opportunités pour innover et créer de la valeur
le 4 septembre 2015 à la Fédération nationale du Crédit Agricole – Paris

Le partage des données entre les acteurs des champs de l’agriculture, de l’alimentation et de l’environnement est une opportunité à saisir par la recherche, le développement, l’industrie et les services, car porteur d’innovations créatrices de valeur dans les domaines publics et privés.
C’est aussi un défi difficile, mais majeur, à relever par ces acteurs.

La conférence G8+5 Open data for agriculture d’avril 2013 a affiché avec force la prise en compte par les pouvoirs publics et politiques des enjeux considérables liés au partage des données dans ces trois champs, souvent inter connectés.

L’appel à la mobilisation des acteurs privés comme publics a souligné l’importance de la création de nouvelles richesses économiques par des innovations de services comme de produits, accélérées et favorisées par ces partages et échanges de données.

Dans la continuité de cet évènement, l’initiative GODAN, Global open data for agriculture and nutrition, prise par les USA (l’USDA) et le Royaume-Uni (le DFID), concrétisée par la conférence CIARD-GODAN tenue à la FAO en avril 2014, a rassemblé pour les mobiliser les acteurs internationaux de la recherche, de la formation et du développement agricole.

La France a décidé de prendre le relais de ces initiatives et de participer à cette mobilisation internationale en organisant en 2015 un évènement propre à amplifier ces dynamiques et mettre en avant les potentiels des acteurs hexagonaux concernés.

Initiative des dirigeants du consortium AGREENIUM, reprise et confirmée par le nouvel Institut IAVFF, puis soutenue par l’Alliance ALLENVI, le présent colloque se donne comme objectifs la mise en synergie des acteurs concernés en les rassemblant autour d’actions exemplaires et de projets concrets illustrant, dans les thématiques de la gestion durable des territoires, de la nutrition pour la santé, de l’agroécologie et de l’adaptation au changement climatique, la réalité des potentialités annoncées.

Ces exemples permettent d’identifier des besoins nouveaux, des modes de pensée et de collaboration différents, des voies de contractualisation originales, et des démarches de valorisation ouvertes et d’un nouveau type, où des intérêts privatifs, sans aucunement être oubliés, peuvent être satisfaits par des partages et des mutualisations qui génèrent une valeur pour le collectif inaccessible à chaque acteur individuel.

Un des enjeux du colloque est de réunir et rassembler les principaux acteurs hexagonaux de la formation agronomique et vétérinaire, de la recherche publique, du développement, de l’industrie et des services, afin de créer une communauté de pensées et d’intérêts au caractère mixte public/privé affiché d’emblée comme essentiel pour générer des innovations d’un nouveau type que nos concurrents et partenaires étrangers risquent de développer plus vite que notre collectif, si nous ne savons pas le mobiliser autour de ces enjeux.

C’est donc un évènement de sensibilisation, de pédagogie, et de mobilisation.
Chacun doit y trouver sa place et sa motivation, son intérêt et sa voie, étudiants comme enseignants, chercheurs comme ingénieurs, sociétés privées comme organisations publiques, afin que les atouts énormes de notre pays dans les champs de l’agriculture, de l’alimentation et de l’environnement puissent rayonner à l’international à la hauteur de leurs potentialités. »

Mise en ligne des diaporamas

Retrouvez en téléchargement les différents diaporamas présentés lors du colloque

Innover par les datas : les enjeux et les linéaments d’une Open Agronomie
Marc Barbier, Inra, UMR LISIS, Paris-Est Marne la Vallée
Données, valeur des données et business models
Simon Chignard, Data editor de la plateforme (mission gouvernementale Etalab, services du Premier Ministre)
Geosud et Theia, « plateformes mutualisées pour la mise à disposition d’imagerie satellitaire et de services de traitements »
Pierre Maurel, Irstea, UMR TETIS, coordinateur EQUIPEX GEOSUD
IDG SIG LR, « portails d’information géographique pour la mise à disposition de produits d’information géographique et de données »
Laurent Pigache, directeur SIG-LR
Chaine d’information au service des territoires
Laurent Pigache, directeur SIG-LR & Pierre Maurel, Irstea, UMR TETIS, coordinateur EQUIPEX GEOSUD
Développement d’une plate-forme de base de données pour des recherches pluridisciplinaires sur l’alimentation
Louis-Georges Soler, Inra, UR Aliss
Sym’Previus ou comment fédérer industriels agroalimentaires, instituts techniques et laboratoires publics pour concevoir un logiciel de prévision du comportement microbien accessible à tous
Noémie Desriac, Adria
Agrosyst, le système d’information au coeur du Plan Ecophyto de réduction d’usage des pesticides
Nicolas Munier-Jolain, Inra, UMR Agroécologie, Dijon
Machines connectées, production de données et élaboration d’aide à la décision
Edouard Alix, Delaval, Coordinateur département innovation et grands troupeaux
Echanges de données entre Inra et Météo-France au service de l’agro-météo-climatologie
Philippe Dandin, Directeur adjoint scientifique de la Recherche, Centre National de Recherches Météorologiques
Des bases de données interopérables et des modèles à coupler pour construire des services pour l’adaptation de l’agriculture et de la forêt au changement climatique : quelles difficultés ?
Nathalie Breda, Inra, UMR Ecologie et écophysiologie fiorestière, métaprogramme ACCAF
Partager les données pour créer de la valeur en agriculture.
La vision d’Irstea
Véronique Bellon-Maurel, Irstea

Poursuivons la réflexion

Continuez de partager avec nous vos réflexions sur les suites à donner via le formulaire en ligne :″


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Bilan du Salon Beyond Beauty Paris 2015

Stratégie Gagnante & Nouveaux Axes Porteurs

Pour sa 13ème édition, le Salon Beyond Beauty Paris, organisé par Informa Exhibitions, a rassemblé durant 3 jours (du 15 au 17 septembre 2015) 7 050 visiteurs professionnels dont 28 % d’internationaux venus faire leur « rentrée beauté » et apprécier les nouveaux axes de développement portés par le salon, dans une formule qui renoue avec son ADN tout en proposant un renouveau très attendu.

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« La complémentarité de l’offre exposant au programme de conférences a permis aux visiteurs d’embrasser une vision globale de ce que le monde de la beauté nous offrira demain. En étant le premier salon de la rentrée, Beyond Beauty Paris permet à la profession de se « remettre dans le bain », de découvrir les nouvelles tendances, de capter les nouveaux courants émergents, de trouver des sources d’inspirations différentes, de ressentir les influences…

Et avec ses trois nouveaux grands axes de développement que sont le Parfum, le Soin et les Tendances, Beyond Beauty Paris renoue avec son ADN mais élargit également son champ de vision » annonce Claudia Bonfiglioli, Directrice Internationale du pôle Beauté du groupe Informa Exhibitions.

Cette année plus que jamais, le salon fût le théâtre d’échanges experts et d’opportunités de business !
Le groupe Informa annonce également un repositionnement de l’événement pour l’année 2016.

Communiqué de presse:


Article :,8608
Communiqué de presse :
Galerie photos :

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Kew Gardens- Spicy Flavour Weekends

11850042_971407519593492_704971487_n« We have plenty of activities to occupy you on your weekends, sure to keep your autumn blues at bay

Spicy Flavour Weekends 

19 September to 11 October, 2015

Join our Spicy Flavour weekends and discover your own unique tasting abilities as we unearth how and why we taste flavours.
Have you ever wondered how each of the five senses affect our perception of flavour ?
At our interactive workshops you’ll experience first-hand how sight, sound, touch, smell and taste affect the flavour of foods
Take our ‘supertaster’ test and discover the science behind kitchen favourites such as chilli, ginger, mustard and black pepper
Discover more about these remarkable spices and see the plants themselves in our tropical glasshouses.

The Flavour weekends are just part of the Kew Gardens day visit experience. Tickets give you access to all of the Gardens and glasshouses. Free entry for members of Friends of Kew. »

The Spice Exchange

The unique, temporary pavillion, interlaced with hundreds of spice jars is the hub of the Flavour weekend activity.
Join us for entertaining stories about the early spice traders and the routes they took to bring spices to the West.
Trade ideas, stories, recipes and remedies at The Spice Exchange, an extraordinary timber pavilion interlaced with thousands of spice jars. Beneath its unique cantilevered roof, The Spice Exchange houses a spice market and chai bar, exhibition space, garden and library, open-air theatre and participatory story exchange. »

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11375340_444929759047394_1163278324_nIllustration of Vanilla planifolia by Matilda Smith (1854-1926), from Curtis’s Botanical Magazine, Vol. 117

Sources :

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Kew Gardens Flavour Perception Test: Delve into the Science of your Sense

« Summer may be over, but autumn is suddenly looking a lot brighter here at Kew Gardens.
This autumn, we’re challenging your perception of flavours and delving into the science of our senses.

Take our quiz and learn more about what your taste buds say about you in our videos :



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Cosmetics Deals Push Skin 3D Bioprinting

3D bioprinting’s allure has attracted blooming interest from the skincare industry, with three leading firms each launching skin printing initiatives in mid-2015 that they hope will revolutionise cosmetic testing.

The initial challenge is making skin slivers for new product experiments conducted in multiwell analytical plates, but success could lead to much grander schemes. The expertise gained could feed into pharmaceutical research, and even help enable patients’ own cells to be made into almost perfectly compatible skin grafts and eventually replacement organs.

Two projects are partnerships with startups: L’Oréal’s US-based global technology incubator has joined forces with Organovo in the US; and German-headquartered BASF with French firm Poietis. Meanwhile, US consumer products giant Procter & Gamble has invited research proposals from Singaporean academics within a five-year S$60 million (£27.4 million) programme with the country’s Agency for Science, Technology and Research (A*Star).

3D-Skin-Printer_Printer-2014_630mOrganovo’s Novogen MMX Bioprinter prints fully human 3D tissue – in this case into multiwell plates © Organovo

Today skin tissue is routinely grown in cell culture, explains Priya Viswanathan from King’s College London, but producing a centimetre-square piece can take up to four weeks. Using the same initial cells, which for lab testing purposes are typically donated by plastic surgery patients, 3D printing can potentially do the same in less than a day. Skin is a multi-layered organ with different cell types, and 3D bioprinting is well suited to depositing cells in that arrangement. ‘You still need to grow the cells, but printing in a multilayer format you wouldn’t need to culture it additionally for that much longer,’ Viswanathan says.

Bioinks for 3D printing can be created by dispersing cells in a standard culture medium. Any printing technology could theoretically then be used to deposit them, Viswanathan explains, making experiments relatively cheap and easy. However, dedicated tools are likely to deliver better results, making them especially attractive if they’re affordable. ‘The lower the cost of the manufacturing and the better the resolution of the printer, the easier it is to take into biological applications,’ Viswanathan underlines.

Challenges inevitably accompany these benefits. The hurdles that stand in the path to skin with full natural functionality include preventing the heat generated in the printing process damaging cells’ health, or viability. It’s also ‘extremely difficult to print the entire complexity of any organ or tissue including the vasculature’, explains Viswanathan, because real tissue needs biochemical inputs including growth factors and cytokines. ‘We rely on the fact that cells produce these themselves, which is good but means that you’re missing a lot of the key ingredients,’ she adds. Additionally, natural tissues combine different types of cell, giving printers a tough choice between simplified single cell-type or complex multiple cell-type processes.

3D-Skin-Printint_Organovoprocess_630mOrganovo’s 3D bioprinting approach involves two print heads, one for cells and one for hydrogel support material © Organovo

Inkjet or laser printer?

Organovo aims to use its 3D printing method to create a convincing version of cells’ natural growth microenvironment. ‘Our goal with each of our tissues is to recapitulate the biochemical production of proteins and enzymes, the gene expression and histology of native tissue,’ says Michael Renard, Organovo’s executive vice president for commercial operations. ‘Our technology allows for the precise control of the spatial relationships between various cell types to mimic the form and function of native tissue.’

The company’s approach, built on research originating from the University of Missouri’s Gabor Forgacs, uses an ink of cultured cells, formed into spheroids. Its printer deposits ink via a capillary tip with one print head into layers of hydrogel dispensed with a second print head. The spheroids naturally fuse together and are left to grow for several weeks, over which time the hydrogel is removed. Organovo has previously produced nerve guides, blood vessels, lung tissue and cardiac sheets or patches. ‘We have already built multi-layered skin consisting of dermis and epidermis layers,’ Renard adds. Organovo’s partnership with L’Oréal involves developing 3D printed skin tissue for product testing and other areas of advanced research, ‘building new breakthroughs in skin modelling’.

Time to mature

Reflecting the importance of self-organisation as printed tissue matures, Poietis calls its approach ‘4D bioprinting’, where the fourth dimension is the architecture that evolves between printing and readiness. To make the first three dimensions it coats cells and surrounding materials, such as hydrogels or collagen, tens of micrometres thick onto glass slides. The bioprinter uses a laser to detach picolitre droplets from the slides, depositing them with high precision and resolution, according to Bertrand Viellerobe, the company’s chief technology officer.

bioprinting‘Different technologies such as bioextrusion or inkjet are complementary, but laser is the best so far,’ Viellerobe claims. ‘The viability of cells is the highest and it’s the only one capable of single-cell printing in very high precision.’ Printing 10,000 drops per second, the template for one layer in the centimetre-square skin pieces used for testing can be formed in less than 30 seconds, he adds. ‘For skin we need to do multilayer printing, in this case it would still take less than ten minutes, and the fourth dimension depends on the type and function of the tissue. Today the standard maturation will be in the range of several days to 1–2 weeks.’

The printed structure serves as a blueprint for the final tissue, but evolution during maturation is also a critical process that must be studied closely, Viellerobe stresses. As well as the geometry of the cells, parameters such as temperature, nutrients and growth factors, oxygen and carbon dioxide levels must be optimised while they incubate, he explains.

Going for the hard cells

BASF’s initial 3D printing focus is its skin model technology, Mimeskin. BASF’s tissue engineering and cell culture expert Sebastien Cadau says that his company was attracted to work with Poietis because of the high resolution its system offers. ‘This allows better understanding of the skin mechanisms when it comes to the development and testing of advanced cosmetic bioactives for skin care,’ he says. ‘We are convinced that thanks to this new technology it will be easier to build complex biological patterns, for instance. Other expected advantages include higher predictability before in vivo clinical studies, higher throughput studies (bringing cost and time savings) and higher reproducibility.’ The throughput advantage comes because automated reproduction of Mimeskin tissue will take just 1-3 days.

Cadau is confident that the combination of BASF and Poietis’ expertise will enable them to quickly identify the constituents needed for the best cell development and self-organisation environment. ‘The goal is to obtain the closest model to human skin, with various dermal and epidermal markers to characterise the future bioprinted skin,’ he says. ‘We will be able to assess the efficacy of active ingredients on defined targets and it will help us in a better understanding regarding unknown skin metabolic pathways.’

Beyond Mimeskin, the BASFPoietis collaboration is due to proceed to more advanced models containing additional cell types. ‘We are focusing first on fibroblasts and keratinocytes, which are the main cells in skin, and then on other dermal or epidermal cell types, such as endothelial cells, melanocytes or immune cells,’ Cadau says. ‘Mastering the complexity of biology is an endless path, but each technical improvement increases our knowledge. In the near future, complex structures with different cell phenotypes could be addressed, such as sebaceous glands or hair follicles, and will depend less on self-organisation.’

In its own research, Poietis is working on printing full-thickness human dermis and epidermis, with Viellerobe hinting at promising results for printing them separately, albeit missing some biological markers. ‘We’re quite confident that with time we’ll be able to fit these layers together,’ he adds.

The anti-Frankenstein?

While recent deals have focused on using 3D bioprinted skin for cosmetic testing, all of the companies involved are also looking further. ‘The field of application has no limit,’ Cadau stresses. Each application previously using 3D models could be replaced by 3D bioprinted models with cost and time savings. Bioprinting will also have a huge impact on skin grafts and patient healthcare.’

Renard highlights that designing and creating functional, three-dimensional human tissues for both medical research and therapeutic applications is exactly Organovo’s aim. ‘We are collaborating with pharmaceutical and select partners to develop human biological disease models in three dimensions,’ he says. ‘These 3D human tissues have the potential to accelerate the drug discovery process, enabling treatments to be developed faster and at lower cost. Because our mission is to build tissues for use in both the laboratory and the clinic, we look to leverage our R&D investment across that continuum.’

3D-Skind-Printing_Skin-Tissue-H&E-20150520_300mBioprinted skin tissue’s epidermal architecture features distinct basal and keratinocyte layers © Organovo

3D printing skin could revolutionise grafting operations, Viswanathan highlights, using a small sample of cells to cover a large area and changing the medical procedure itself. ‘You have the ability to print cells very quickly onto the wound site, and enable its repair much faster,’ she says. She highlights research on printing skin directly onto burns at the US Armed Forces Institutes of Regenerative Medicine, led by Wake Forest University in Winston-Salem, North Carolina. ‘Because this has to be used in combat the technology is portable,’ she underlines.

And unlike some biotechnological innovations, using 3D bioprinting to provide replacement body parts using a patient’s own cells is relatively popular, asserts Viellerobe. Consequently, alongside its conventional startup funding, Poietis is seeking to raise €600,000 (£436,000) through crowdfunding by early October. ‘Everyone can understand and see that it will be useful for healthcare,’ Viellerobe says. ‘If someone has had cancer and part of their skin has been removed, you can take other cells from the patient and make very similar tissue in terms of colour, hair follicles, and vascularisation. Maybe you won’t even see where the graft is. The ultimate vision is to print every type of cell with very high precision to make every type of tissue or organ.’ »

Article by Andy Extance

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