H&M Joins Forces with HSI in the Fight to End Animal Testing in Cosmetics Globally

« Humane Society International has joined forces with fashion firm H&M in order to develop new animal welfare pledges that will look to combat animal cruelty and pursue policy change around the world to combat cosmetics testing on animals, as well as cruel practices in fashion production.

These pledges have been outlined as national legislative bans on animal testing of cosmetics, as well as the cruel practices within wool and down production.
“Animal welfare is important to us at H&M and we want to contribute to improved animal welfare practices in our industry, which is why we are committing ourselves not only to further improve our own requirements, but also to work collaboratively with HSI to elevate standards throughout the industry and globally,” says Madelene Ericsson, Sustainability Business Expert at H&M.
HSI is a globally recognized organization with long experience within this area we believe they will be a very good partner in pushing for change and we hope that other companies will be inspired to do likewise.(…) »

Article by Andrew McDougall

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Agreement for Skin Model Development

« BASF and Poietis, a specialist in 3D laser-assisted bioprinting, have signed an agreement on research and development in cosmetics.
Based on the combined expertise of both companies in tissue engineering and bioprinting, the agreement aims to apply the bioprinting technology of Poietis to improve BASF’s skin equivalent model Mimeskin.

The 3D laser-assisted bioprinting technology, by which organic tissues can be reproduced, allows for a precise positioning of the skin cells in three-dimensional structures. Through this, cells are cultivated within BASF’s skin model Mimeskin, which is a close equivalent to the original physiological tissue of human skin.
Poietis’ bioprinting technology refines BASF’s skin model Mimeskin due to its advanced printing resolution.

The laser-assisted bioprinting technology will be used in a first step to allow for automated reproduction of Mimeskin, followed by more advanced models containing additional cell types. »


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Ethical Labels Boosting Nordic Naturals

« The Nordic market for natural cosmetics is showing healthy growth, with sales doubling between 2008 and 2014. A new study by Organic Monitor predicts sales revenues to climb to € 200 million in the coming years.

Denmark has the largest market for natural cosmetics in the Nordic region; natural & organic products comprise 4 % of total cosmetic & personal care product sales. The country also has very high market share for organic foods, 7 %; the highest in the world. Danish consumers are high spenders on natural & organic products because of ethical and environmental concerns.
Widening availability is also driving market growth. Natural & organic cosmetics are making inroads in department stores, beauty retailers, supermarkets, drugstores and non-retail channels.
Although imported brands are highly established, Nordic brands are showing a rise in market share. The Danish company Urtekram has taken market leadership.
Organic Monitor finds green labels are becoming increasingly important in the Nordic region. Consumers are increasingly looking for logos and symbols that represent ethical / environmental attributes. The Nordic Swan is most established for personal care products, recognised by over 90% of consumers.
Ethical labels will be featured in the upcoming Sustainable Cosmetics Summit Europe. Hosted in Paris on 21-23 October, an update will be given on the growing myriad of ethical labelling schemes for cosmetics & personal care products. Urtekram will be sharing its experiences with such labels at the summit. »


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SCS Formulate 2015- Most Innovative Cosmetic Formulation

« The Society of Cosmetic Scientists (SCS) is to introduce a new competition to find the year’s most Innovative Cosmetic Formulation.

The challenge is to create the most innovative cosmetic formulation of 2015 and the competition is open to all exhibitors at this year’s SCS Formulate (17-18 November, Ricoh Arena, Coventry, UK). The winning formulation will be announced during SCS Formulate 2015.CKh_OEBWwAAxJRO
“I recently saw a quote saying ‘The best way to kill an idea is to take it to a meeting’,” said SCS President, Steve Barton. “I believe the best way to grow an idea is to share it. And if it’s an idea for a cosmetic formulation, there’s nowhere better than SCS Formulate! ”
The SCS is dedicating the Innovative Cosmetic Formulation award to Laura Marshall, who passed away so suddenly and tragically in October 2014. Laura made a huge contribution to the Society, organising many events, but she was particularly closely associated with SCS Formulate. The SCS wants to mark her contributions and remember her. »


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Ingredient Review Panel and Croda Contribution

« Croda contributed its expertise to the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) panel in Washington DC earlier this summer through its Sederma division.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) panel routinely analyses and assesses the safety of individual ingredients that are used in cosmetic products, and has worked for 35 years in partnership with the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the cosmetic industry to make sure the most up-to-date information is captured for cosmetic ingredients.

On 15 June 2015, a representative from Sederma delivered expert contributions to a discussion around ingredients produced from plant cell technology that falls under the expertise of IRB by Sederma (Instituto di Ricerche Biotecnologiche SpA), a pioneer in the use of this technology for the cosmetic industry.

To assist their review of various cosmetic ingredients derived from Centella asiatica, the panel had requested an expert to provide them with a better understanding of Centella derivatives from plant cell culture, namely callus culture and meristem cell culture, and how those products might differ in composition compared to other plant extracts.
Sederma’s presentation on plant cell culture technology for the cosmetic industry provided the panel with an understanding that allowed them to issue a final ruling, concluding that these products are safe for cosmetic use. »



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Algae, Innovating The Future

« Algae are the most important photosynthetic organisms on Earth, they capture more solar energy and produce more oxygen than the sum of the rest of the plants. Algae can be found in almost every ecosystem, due to their high adaptation ability. Furthermore, biotechnology based on algae is blooming due to their multiple and useful properties.
Algae are becoming the focus of sustainable resources as biomass, production of oil, fuel or even food and feed. They can grow almost everywhere around the planet and in diverse ecosystems. Algae present many benefits such as consumption of CO2, production of O2 (estimated around 70 %), water purification, biomass production or production of byproducts; chemicals, plastics, lubricants…

Lievres de mer sur du fucus. Parc Naturel marin d'Iroise, Site du Conservatoire du Littoral. Finistere, Bretagne, FRANCE - 19/05/2011

Algae are exceptional for bioplastic production, because of their high yield and ability to make many bioproducts, including petroleum replacements like biofuels and bioplastics. Although the use of bioplastic sourced from algae is quite new, it is experiencing a fast development. Besides, diverse industries are very interested on finding new applications to these sustainable and carbon neutral products.

In this regard, the latest application of algae technology is the production of an algae surfboard created by the University of California San Diego (UCSD), California Center for Algae Biotechnology, in collaboration with Arctic Foam and Solazyme. This project began when undergraduate students of biology and chemistry made polyurethane foam from algae oil. Nowadays, polyurethane is source almost exclusively from petroleum. In this project, algae oil is converted into polyols and then mixed with a catalyst and silicates. After, the product obtained is a kind of expanded foam.
This new board, so-called, “surfboard of the future” is made of algal oil that is converted by UCSD into polyols. Later these polyols are sent to Arctic Foam, a surfboard manufacturer, where they are converted into polyurethane surfboard blanks and shaped into surfboards before being coated with fiberglass and a renewable plant-based resin. The polyurethane foam core is indistinguishable from other polyurethanes surfboards. This surfboard foam core is not the end, next will be to fabricate surfboards 100% from renewable resources, replacing the use of resins obtained from petroleum.
This prototype has fulfilled the expectations of surfers who have test ridden the board and are happy with these new ecoboards.
This surfboard represents the fusion between biotechnology, surf and environmental conscious thinking. »


Article by Ana Cortijo Martin
Vidéo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=89&v=mN8s-7RR7yQ

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Substances chimiques : les PME sont aussi concernées

« L’Agence européenne des produits chimiques (ECHA) a publié un Guide de 60 pages sur la sécurité des substances chimiques en entreprise, dédié aux petites et moyennes entreprises (PME). Il vise à accompagner les PME dans la conformité aux règlements européens.

Il répond à des questions clés : Quels sont les produits chimiques concernés ? Qui doit respecter les règlements ? Comment fonctionnent les règlements Reach, CLP et biocides ? Quelles sont les échéances ?
Le document permet de savoir à quelles exigences l’entreprise est soumise, et ce en identifiant son rôle (fabricant, importateur, utilisateur en aval ou distributeur d’une substance chimique), le produit fabriqué, acheté, vendu ou utilisé et si ce dernier est dangereux.
L’ECHA donne également des pistes pour diminuer les coûts. Elle rappelle que les redevances et taxes, qui lui sont versées, sont calculées en fonction de la taille de l’entreprise : plus l’entreprise est petite, plus ses frais seront réduits. Sur les questions de financement, l’Agence fait le point sur l’incitation à la substitution des composés chimiques dangereux et au soutien à la recherche et l’innovation.
Des annexes viennent compléter le document : pictogrammes CLP pour l’étiquetage des produits, liste des produits biocides, outils en ligne utiles, et critères d’éligibilité à des financements nationaux et européens.
Pour rappel, en novembre 2014, l’Union des industries chimiques (UIC) ainsi que l’ECHA alertaient sur la troisième échéance pour l’enregistrement des substances chimiques, en conformité avec le règlement REACh, soit le 31 mai 2018. »

Article par Déborah Paquet

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