“Women aged from 30 to 60 are the biggest consumers of products to lighten the skin and even out its tone.
Freckles and skin spots can appear as a result of excessive sun exposure, hormonal changes or simply be a visible reminder of the passing of time. They are one of the main beauty concerns of Brazilian women, behind only dark circles and “crow’s feet”, those dreaded branching wrinkles at the outer corner of the eyes.
Although Brazilians love having a tan, they are increasingly looking for products that claim to lighten the skin and even out the skin tone.
The skin care segment leads the beauty industry at global level, having recorded a turnover of US$ 107 billion in 2013, according to data from Euromonitor.
Of this total, around 65 % stems from facial treatments, of which 30 % are related to lightening products. Asian countries, where white skin really is an obsession, are the biggest consumers in the category, followed by the U.S.
“Skin lightening products still represent a niche market in Brazil, but it is a world trend and we will not remain immune to it,” says Vanessa Salazar, global sales manager at Beraca, a company that operates in more than 40 countries and supplies natural active ingredients to the cosmetic, pharmaceutical and personal care industry.
Nicolle Nogueira, marketing manager of Racco, says the category has been gaining market share every year. “Skin lightening products represented approximately 20 % of Racco sales within the skin care segment in 2014, which is a significant number.” She believes the good result is due to a change in consumer behavior. “Brazilian women do not only want to cover the spots with makeup, but to actually treat them to achieve a more uniform skin tone.”
Until very recently, hyperpigmentation treatments were restricted to the use of harsh compounds that could cause allergic reactions, sensitiveness, redness and, in more serious cases, irreversible spots. The most popular – and controversial – of these ingredients is hydroquinone, a derivative from benzene that destroys the cells that produce melanin, thus removing freckles and skin spots. It is regarded as toxic and has been gradually disappearing from the market. Hydroquinone is banned in Japan and in a number of U.S. states. In most European countries, its concentration must be limited to 1 % of the formula.
“The ban on hydroquinone has forced innovation and gave rise to new active ingredients that are effective in lightening spots as well as gentle on the skin,” says Nogueira. The market started to look for alternative solutions – a derivative from hops, Swiss chard sprout, pea extract, golden caviar, and an ingredient derived from daisy flower blossoms are among the new raw materials used in treating skin spots.(…)”
Article by Renata Martins
Cet article n’engage que son auteur/ This article is the sole responsibility of the author.